Investigation of plant derived substances that promote the biosynthesis of collagen; development of cosmetic and dermatological skin care products

Kurt, Aslıgül
Extracellular matrix provides a healthy functional condition for skin; it is composed largely of collagen and secreted by fibroblasts. As the aging develops, cellular proteins change shapes which prevents the proteins from proper communications resulting in the loss of extracellular matrix and collagen. Finally, the wrinkles and aging effects start building up. Meanwhile, the use of collagen stimulating products can reverse this process. Many herbal products have been produced for the repair of aging effects. Besides the benefits, some of those manufactured herbal products have the adverse effects as a result of unscientific production. In this study, in-vitro experimental steps were planned for the search of herbal ingredients to help the induction of collagen biosynthesis. Plant samples that are used were selected from the effective facial mask recipes, as seed cotyledon of Aesculus hippocastanum and aerial parts of Hyperricum perforatum, Primula vulgaris, Achillea millefolium. vi The plant samples were extracted in methanol and experimental steps were started with the anti-oxidant tests. Hypericum perforatum extract revealed the highest antioxidant effect. Then, human fibroblasts were exposed to each extract and the effects of crude extracts were investigated on the expression level of type 1 collagen by qPCR and westen blot analysis. In qPCR analysis Achillea millefolium extract and in westen blot analysis Primula vulgaris extract had the highest induction rate. Those two extracts were fractionated with appropriate solvents (hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, water respectively). The effects of the ethyl acetate and water fractions as well as the crude extracts were again investigated on the expression level of type 1 collagen. The highest induction rate of collagen was found with the crude extract treatments. In conclusion, the crude extract of Primula vulgaris was found to reveal the highest induction on collagen biosynthesis, which can be used in dermatological skin care products.