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Spectral characteristics of wind waves in the Eastern Black Sea

Yılmaz, Nihal
Wind waves are highly complex, random phenomena. One way to describe the irregular nature of the sea surface is the use of wave energy spectrum. Spectral information for wind waves in the Black Sea is extremely limited. Knowledge on spectral characteristics of wind waves would contribute to scientific, engineering and operational coastal and marine activities in the Black Sea. The aim of the present thesis is to investigate characteristics of wind wave spectra for the Eastern Black Sea. This would allow detailed understanding of the nature of the waves occurring in this enclosed basin. Long-term wave measurements obtained by directional buoys deployed offshore at Sinop, Hopa and Gelendzhik were utilized as the three sets of wave data. Records were analyzed to identify them as uni-modal or multi-modal spectra, and occurrences of spectral peaks were computed. Single peaked spectra were studied as belonging to fully arisen or developing sea states. Model parameters of JONSWAP and PM spectra were estimated for the observed spectra by using a least square error method. The records of developing seas were further analyzed to select the ones belonging to stable wind conditions. Fetch dependencies of non-dimensional spectral variables, mean parameters of JONSWAP model spectrum and the envelop of dimensionless spectra were investigated for this data sub-set.