Modelling long term morphological change using XBeach

Söğüt, Erdinç
In this study, the XBeach Model, a two-dimensional depth averaged coupled hydrodynamic and morphologic numerical model, is used to determine the long-term behaviour of sediment transport process and morphological changes in Yumurtalık region in Adana, Turkey. Firstly, general information about the types of sediment transport processes and available coastal numerical models is given. Secondly, the structure of XBeach model, the boundary conditions and the model parameters that need to be defined are briefly discussed. Thirdly, the wave climate of the study area is studied and the representative waves that are used as the offshore wave boundary conditions in the numerical model are presented. Using the wave conditions obtained for the study area, a calibration study for the numerical model is first performed to determine the model parameters. In the calibration study, the field data composed of cross-shore profile measurements for the years 2006 and 2009 are used as initial and final bathymetries. Then, using the model parameters obtained from the calibration study, the numerical model is applied to the field measurements taken in 2009 and 2011, as a verification study. The model results are compared with the field measurements and they are found to be generally in agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. According to the results of field measurements, it is observed that there exists a cross-shore dominated sediment transport in Yumurtalık region. A similar behaviour is also observed from the model results. From this study, it is found that XBeach might be considered as a numerical tool that can be applied in such medium to long term morphological modelling problems.
Citation Formats
E. Söğüt, “Modelling long term morphological change using XBeach,” M.S. - Master of Science, Middle East Technical University, 2014.